Although there are various designs of lathes intended for use by watchmakers, some dating back to the late 1700s and including specialised models - for example "fiddle" lathes, "steel turns", Jacot, Swiss, Swiss Universal (also called the English Mandrel) Bottum and Dracip - more modern examples can generally be divided into two types: the lighter "Geneva" and heavier "WW". The "Geneva" version can be recognised by its round bed, with a flat machined along either the top (or, more commonly, the back) and nearly always supported on a single foot beneath the headstock. These lathes, invented in 1859 by Charles S. Moseley in the U.S.A., generally take 6, 6.5 or 8 mm collets and were designed for lighter, very high-precision work. However, the "WW" (Webster-Whitcombe), is considered by many to be a more popular and versatile machine and is also of American origin, dating from around 1889. The centre height of the WW is usually 50 mm, though very occasionally 65, 70 mm and other figures are encountered. Of heavy construction, the bed is formed with a 37 mm-wide flat on the top and a 60-degree bevel along each edge, and carries a headstock spindle to accept 8, 10 mm or 12 mm collets (though odd, in-between sizes have also been discovered).
Amongst exceptions to the above two types are a number of unusual and interesting machines including a range of fine Boley lathes, manufactured from the middle 1800s to the early 1900s with either a triangular-form bed or an oddly compromise design (which did not catch on) where the bottom of the bed was semi-circular in form and the top triangulated or "bevelled" . Also available have been slightly larger lathes with triangular-beds such as Glashutte, H.Strube & Fils together with unknown makes from the former East Germany and, though they might be considered as being too large, an unknown model from France and the Dalgety.
Larger than the WW type are what might be called "toolmakers' or "bench precision" lathes: these vary in size from the Schaublin 65 and 70 (the latter being the most popular and frequently-encountered machine in the professional watchmaker's workshop), the Pultra 15/90 and larger examples such as the Schaublin 102, American Watch Tool Company, Arrow, B.C.Ames, Bausch & Lomb, Benson, Boley, Bottum, Boxford, B.W.C., Carstens, Cataract, Cromwell, Crystal Lakes, CVA, Derbyshire, Elgin, Hardinge, Hjorth, Juvenia, Karger, Leinen, Levin, Lorch, Mikron, W.H.Nichols, Potter, Pratt & Whitney, Rambold, Rebmann, Remington, Rivett, Saupe, See (FSB), Sloan & Chace, Smart & Brown, T & L.M., U.N.D., Van Norman, Wade, Waltham Machine Works, Weisser, Wolf Jahn and (though now very rare), Frederick Pearce, Ballou & Whitcombe, Sawyer Watch Tool Co., Engineering Appliances, Fenn-Sadler and the "Cosa Corporation of New York." While useful machines in a precision workshop, these are outside the scope of this article but further information can be found here.
There has not only been dozens of makers of watchmakers' lathes, but also a lot of "badge engineering" where dealers and distributors commissioned batches of lathes for themselves, a well-known example in England being George Adams of London (who sold and re-branded mainly German-made machines) and G.Boley who offered their "bevelled-bed" model for re-badging by importers - two examples being the "English" Rawco and Telco. This situation was compounded by a number of parts and accessories being interchangeable between different makers - so it is entirely possible that a lathe has been "made up" from others, either casually over many years of ownership, or unscrupulously by a "dealer". However, it's very unlikely that the bed, headstock and tailstock will be from different manufacturers, but if they are, be wary.
Unfortunately no maker of a watch lathes has ever offered a proper handbook for their products but, happily, there is an excellent hard-back book available that does the same job: "The Watchmakers' Lathe". This is a long-established publication and, because most of these lathes were built along the same lines, and use almost identical accessories, the book is able to give instructions and guidance that applies to all types.
Below is a set of links in the lathes.co.uk Machine Tool Archive to some makers of watch and instrument makers' lathes and their accessories - some common, like G.Boley, but others very rare, e.g. Accuro, O.W.T. and Reese.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/American Watch Tool Company
http://www.lathes.co.uk/Andra & Zwingenberger
http://www.lathes.co.uk/East-German (Unknown makes)
……….. and others here
Manufacturers and Brands
Should any reader have a lathe marked with the maker's name shown in red, below, the writer would be pleased to hear from you. Perhaps an example of each will, in the fullness of time, be found
Genuinely high-quality Watchmakers' lathes were manufactured and branded by, amongst others:
American Watch Company (C. S. Moseley-designed lathe circa 1859)
American Watch Company (A. Webster-designed lathe circa 1859/60)
American Watch Tool Company (Webster-Whiitcomb improved-design lathe of 1889 - the WW model)
J.A.Bradshaw (possibly just a dealer's marking)
Boston Watch Company (C. S. Moseley-designed lathe circa 1858)
R.Cowles USA) (possibly only a patent and never manufactured)
E.H.J. (E. H. Jones machinery dealers and commissioners)
Faneuil Watch Tool Co.
Gem (Gem Glorious)
Gentil (Star Lathes, Switzerland)
George Adams (re-branded Boley and Lorch, etc. and cheaper imitations under his own label)
Hammel, Riglander & Co.
Haskett (possibly only a patent and never manufactured)
Hopkins - Patented 1872 (Van Norman)
Jackson (possibly only a patent and never manufactured)
R.H. St. John (possibly only a patent and never manufactured)
Jones (J & T Jones UK)
Gustav Klett (East Germany)
Lancaster Special (by the Faneuil Watch Tool Company circa 1899 for sale by a jewellers' supply house L. C. Reisner of Lancaster, Pennsylvania.
Lampert - also a manufacturer of collets (U.S.A.)
Lanco (Lane Cove)
Leffel & Mulholland (possibly only a patent and never manufactured)
Lorch (Lorch Schmidt)
O.W.T. (Ohio Watch Tool Co.)
Panerai & Figli (Italy)
Picard (Henri Picard et Frere)
Rivett (sometimes marked Rivett Lathe Mfg. Co. and, possibly, Rivett Lathe & Grinder Co.)
Rivett Lathe & Grinder Corporation Type 1R
ROFB (Royal Ordnance Factory Birmingham)
Scomea (Société Commerciale d'Outillage et de Mécanique d'Aviation)
Shaller (possibly only a patent and never manufactured)
Sloan & Chace
Star (R. Gentil & Co. Company of La Brevine in Switzerland)
Stehman Jenks & Stehman Lancaster PASteiner
Tribby (possibly only a patent and never manufactured)
C.V.Woerd (possibly only a patent and never manufactured)
Van Norman (sometimes branded Hopkins)